The Loewe Autumn/Winter 2011 Womenswear Collection concentrates on outerwear, anarea in which Loewe can employ its centuries-old skills with leathers, skins and furs to explorethe richness of texture and form inherent in the materials.
The natural volumes and architectural properties of materials inform the silhouettes andstructures. Hand-crafted interventions then define the pieces of outerwear. Bonding materialslike leather and cashmere helps support and enhance the light structures naturally afforded by anappa skirt and jacket. The weight of fur is alleviated by apertures cut into the skin thatnevertheless retain the material’s texture, thermal qualities and volume. Sheepskin bases andtrims enhance the warmth and comfort of garments and bestow them with a rougher sense ofcool.
The collection maintains a truth to materials. The grain of antelope hair or a patchwork of haircalf allows for a naturally intricate texture and pattern in a skirt. Statement pieces in materialsthat reflect the house codes: nappa, suede, hair-calf, nubuck, shearling, ostrich, fox and silk arecomplemented by black knit leggings and fingerless gloves, which enhance theirsumptuousness and reflect the ease with which these pieces can be inserted into an everydaywardrobe.
A print taken from stained glass rose windows in Spanish cathedrals, most notably from thecity of Borgo, was digitally enhanced to bring forward the inherent luminosity of silk.
The colour palette at the heart of the collection is informed by Loewe’s signature ‘oro’ colour,which forms the prevailing brown base of the collection, which is also reflected in the makeupdesign. The collections presents a spectrum of natural brown hues as light as cream andcaramel and as dark as ginger and chocolate. Pop highlights in certain garments and accessoriesserve to complement and emphasize the natural hues of the skins.
The bags in particular act as highlights of color contained in forms that are smart andstructured. A straightforward leather closure lends its form to a metal trims. Mini-cases, insignature ‘oro’ suede, reflect the construction of luggage and their structural nail-heads becomeembellishments on other styles. The graphic and linear qualities of the bags are a result of thedesign process that involved drawings done with a large marker that highlighted form. Theclassic house material of nappa leather is padded to emphasize a new soft structure of the bags.
The looks are stemmed by shoes inspired by men’s oxfords, brogues and loafers. These stylessee new proportions applied to traditional craft techniques and natural materials like stackedheels and rubbed-off cordovan leather.