The 2011-2012 Fall/Winter collection was designed by Nicolas Ghesquière, playing on variations in scale and layering, like an exercise in the relativity of perspectives, or how the vision of things can magnify or reduce reality.
This inspiration is perfectly illustrated at the start of the fashion show, with the work on oversize knit bomber jackets that are gigantic in volume and shaped like a cocoon. In A bold manner, the traditional fabric is replaced by wide tubes of imitation leather worn over draped silk dresses.
The prints are designed on a large scale, decorated with drawings of animals and vegetation in earth tones. Playing on transparency, the alternating strips of double-sided knit fabric and translucent nylon reveal a view of the print dresses worn underneath, like the backdrop of a painting.
The silhouette reflects this immense play on variations in scale and superimposed layers. The oversize bomber jackets and the loose turtle neck and v-neck pullovers, all normally masculine garments, contrast with the light crepe blouses and the draped silk-cady skirts. The draped panels are then worked into structured and very dark monochromatic silhouettes, decorated with jewelery chains that are mysteriously integrated into the garment.
Large men's coats are worn over fluid dresses that are feminine and elegant, and over pants that are sculpted using patches of satin-finished imitation leather . These pants are then worn with more feminine outfits, inspired by the creations of Cristobal Balenciaga: dresses in net fabric with graphic colors inspired by an Edition dress, egg-shaped coats, emblematic models from the Balenciaga legacy.
Then the lines become apparently simpler. Geometric pieces inspired by religious themes are worked into the folds and the cuts using metallic fabrics. They are placed so as to project from the body. Sculpted tops that feature Edition embroidery with rectangular sequins are worn with pants. Finally, the Colourblock silhouettes, loose and draped at the top, fitted and monochromatic below, completely cover the body, giving a more graphic and monkish impression. The final looks are incarnated with the "Pliage" Edition coats from the 1965 collection, over simple and pure silhouettes.
The materials in the collection, while they have a modern touch with imitation leather and nylon knits, stay classic and refined thanks to the use of crepes and satins.
The color tones are classic, with a palette of black, plum, gray and ivory, which plays an important role this season. They are frequently illuminated by flashes of fresh, vibrant colors like fuchsia or electric-blue.
The accessories are in harmony with the collection, from clutches in embossed leather or knit with imitation leather, to stilettos in two materials with sumptuous metallic tones and exotic skins, like iguana and tilapia, that add to the effect of contrast in the collection. The artisan technique of "Cordoba leather" establishes a real contrast with this graphic modernism and gives the collection an even more luxurious dimension.